Timelapse photography by Randy Halverson. The videos and stock footage on this site, and feature downloads, are available for licensing in 4K resolution up to 4096X2304. If you are a production company, contact me for free download screeners of the shorts and features. I have also done network, corporate and commercial work worldwide, and am available for that on a limited basis. I can also do long term timelapse in solar powered weather proof housings for construction, agriculture or similar needs. Email me at email@example.com
If you like what you see on this site, feel free to order a print, or a download a video.
For production stills etc.
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Twitter twitter.com/dakotalapseDynamic Perception stage zero dolly eMotimot TB3 motion control gear.
Dynamic Perception Stage Zero Dolly and "Orion" head (I no longer use the Orion head)
Long Exposure Timelapse - The night timelapse of the stars, Milky Way and Aurora are shot with long exposures on Canon DSLR Still Cameras. The long exposures of 10-30 seconds allow the camera's sensor to capture more light than you will see with your eyes. The Milky Way and Aurora won't look as bright to the eyes as it does in the stills or timelapse.
The timelapse are shot in RAW full size format. RAW allows for more adjustments in post. Most shots go from 10-30 seconds per frame, with three second intervals and run continuous for 3+ hours. Most of the shots utilize Dynamic Perceptions Stage Zero or Stage One Dolly for the motion, see photos below. I no longer use the Orion head (aka Merlin or Celestron) for pan and tilt seen in the above photo. Check out my eMotimo TB3 page for a much better solution.
TB3 Video from Randy Halverson on Vimeo.
Most of the timelapse is shot at night. If you can see stars in the shot, and it looks like the sun setting or rising, it is actually the moon. The moon will light up the landscape just like the sun with long exposures. The shot below from Horizons was under a near full moon at night.
For dew and frost prevention, I use hand warmers held on with a rubber band.
If I think heavy dew may be a problem, I also cover the camera with a Storm Jacket covers, which are a much better method. In extreme cold, it is best to let the camera warm up gradually, by covering it with a heavy coat, inside a cold cooler, etc. before bringing it inside. This will help prevent condensation on and more importantly inside the camera and lens.